Bimmer Fanatics

The AC Schnitzer GP3.10 GAS POWERED

2007-11-09T20:31:00.000+02:00

Driving pleasure has been written large at AC Schnitzer for 20 years. And happily, nothing will change for the 62nd IAA. But this goal can be reached in a totally alternative way, as the launch of the superb AC Schnitzer GP3.10 GAS POWERED shows. This high-performance coupé has LPG (Liquified Petroleum Gas) drive, where power and efficiency, economy and ecology, meet in an exciting study.

Engine - Exhaust

As if the extravagant exterior of the project vehicle, based on the current 3-series coupé, were not enough, under the bonnet growls the V10 engine of the current M5/M6 which AC Schnitzer is presenting at the show for the first time in bivalent design: The vehicle has a fully sequential LPG system with two parallel 5-cylinder vaporizers.

There's no loss of power or dynamics. The engine, tuned with a remapped control unit and modified exhaust tract with sports catalyst and exhaust manifold, develops 552 HP/406 kW and produces up to 540 Nm at the crankshaft. In itself, that's 45 horses more than the M5/M6.

But why power this with LPG? Liquified Petroleum Gas is a sensible alternative to normal petrol fuel, both economically and ecologically, and after corresponding conversion can be burned in almost any petrol engine. Per litre, LPG is not only cheaper than petrol but produces around 15 percent less CO2 from the exhaust. With over 2700 filling stations in Germany alone, fuel supplies are guaranteed everywhere, and the 70 litre gas tank fits on board with the original 60 litre petrol tank. So you can switch between fuels at any time. In any case, acceleration is more than just acceptable.

The sprint to 100 km/h takes 4.5 seconds, and the 200 mark is passed after just 13.9 seconds. Only at 320 km/h does the pressure on your back begin to ease. Nimble enough to show the rear lights to many powerful sports cars.

Technical know how and support during the realisation was given to us by the specialists from BRC Gas Equipment and the German importer Gasdrive Technologies.

Brakes

And to match the power of the acceleration, there's the brakes on the AC Schnitzer GP3.10 GAS POWERED: At the front, 8-pot fixed calliper brakes with perforated and vented discs size 374 x 36 mm, at the rear a 4-pot brake system with 350 x 24 mm discs.

The Suspension Technology

Traction alone isn't everything, and the dynamics are supported by a height adjustable racing suspension with its heritage, set up in the Green Hell of the Nürburgring. In addition the special sway bar set is responsible for even more driving stability.

The Bodywork

the striking body design will soon bring passers-by to a stop. In conjunction with the mineral green special paintwork, the AC Schnitzer aerodynamic kit is a real eyecatcher.

The air intakes on the front wings, with their characteristic chrome ribs, and the rear 60 mm wheelarch extensions, are particularly successful.

The rear styling with its special contours and the rear skirt with integral diffuser, the rear roof wing with carbon centre part, are as aesthetically pleasing as the powerful front skirt with its coarse-mesh sports grille.

The latter makes an effective contribution to the breathing of the oxygen-hungry five-litre engine.

The Interior

AC Schnitzer has created a feast for all the senses with the GP3.10 GAS POWERED, which does not stop in the interior:

The interior of the AC Schnitzer PROFILE is a combination of developments from the AC Schnitzer range which are available for many BMW models, and special one-off products. In detail:

- 3-spoke sports airbag steering wheel "Evo" Nappa leather
- interior of bicolor leather, Nappa-Nubuk combination
- interior panels painted in mineral green
- instrument display with speedometer up to 330 km/h

- racing seats
- aluminium pedal set and foot rest
- aluminium handbrake handle and aluminium cover for i-Drive-System, black eloxed
- floor mats with GP 3.10 logo

The Wheels

For both acceleration and deceleration, it is the wheels which are permanently under full load in all manoeuvres.

Equally breathtaking for the spectator is the first sight of the racing rims Type VI. The latest creation from the Aachen wheel manufacturer combines the classic Y-spoke appearance with five striking hollow spokes and bicolor finish. Naturally these decorative elements are not just available for the AC Schnitzer GP3.10 GAS POWERED.

Just Perfect

2007-11-08T16:31:00.001+02:00

DIY : BMW IPOD INTERFACE

2007-11-08T15:40:00.000+02:00

This install takes 45 minutes to an hour. This one is not difficult per say but if you do not have the super secret special BMW round pin removal tool (61 1 132) it can be a royal pain in the ass. Oh, and you're almost assured skinned knuckles.
Though a "tool" can likely be fabbed up from some 4mm (ID) tubing.
Seriously, the dimensions on the tool are 4mm id and 4.25mm od - if you can find a metal tube with dimensions that are close to this you should be able to use it. Someone at a forum posted that a 3/16" tube worked after the outside was sanded down a bit. Like I said, I bought the tool...
Step 1: Getting the required items together

This install requires:

BMW iPod Interface Kit p/n 65 11 0 392 133
Apple iPod or iPod mini
Flat screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
10mm socket or wrench
Electric Drill
5/8" drill bit
Utility Knife
A BMW M3 (E46) without Navigation 9/01 or later production.
45 minutes to an hour of free time.
Step 2: Disconnecting the Battery
Battery is behind the passenger side wheel in the trunk below a plastic cover
Pull up the trunk floor carpet and backing
Pop out the rear light pod (see image)
Pull up the trunk liner above the plastic battery cover
Turn the two plastic "bolts" 1/4 turn to release the cover
Pull out the plastic cover
Using a 10mm socket or wrench loosen the NEGATIVE terminal
Pull the negative terminal off the post and push it aside so that it does not contact the negative post by accident

Step 3: Removing Interior Trim

Two trim pieces need to come out in order to access the radio, etc.
Have to be REALLY careful with the trim: Patience and even pressure will pull the stuff off, yanking on it will earn a bill for new pieces.
Starting at the edge of the trim on the passenger side and using a screw driver wrapped in a cloth, etc. pry the edge of the trim up.
This trim piece is attached with 4 pins and interlocks with the trim piece above the radio.
Once the first piece is out the piece above the radio has to come out.
Trim piece above the radio is attached with 2 pins and the side nearest to the steering column is a bit of a pain to get out. Slow and easy if you force it you'll be buying a new piece.
Step 4: Removing The Glove Box
Empty out the glove box
First the plastic pins that hold the strap (right) and damper (left) to the glove box tray have to pop out.
Pressing on the inside end of the plastic pins will start them out - they can be pulled out from there or if stubborn a screw driver will most certainly pop them out.
There are 6 screws holding the glove box in as well as a series of tabs at the back.
3 Screws along the top edge, 2 on the right side and 1 on the left side.
Once the screws are out the glove box can be leveraged out by pulling it forward toward the seat.
There are 2 power connections still connected to the glove box so just pull it out enough to release and then set it on the floor.
Disconnect the power to the glove box light - just simply pulls out.
Disconnect the power to the flash light charging unit - squeeze the 2 tabs on the plug to pop it off.
Note how the wiring is threaded around the plastic tabs and make a mental picture so that you remember how it goes back in.
Set the glove box aside for now.

Step 5: Removing The Radio

Note: BMW claims that you have to remove not only the radio but the HVAC unit below it, the radio/HVAC bracket and the center vent in order to install the interface - I see no reason to do this...
The HVAC unit requires a special tool (or a set of thin steak knives) to pop out and the vent is a royal pain to remove.
Either way you can do all of this (though with an increased risk of skinned knuckles) by just removing the radio itself.
To release the radio the two retaining screws have to come out.
Step 6: Unplugging The Radio
There are 2 plugs on the back of the radio
On the right there is a small plug (antenna) which pops off with a squeeze of the tab on the connector
On the left there is the mother of all radio connectors with is a bit more tricky to pull off
There is a clip of sorts that holds the large plug in place.
The clip slides up to release the plug. A Small screw driver easily pops the clip upward to release the plug.
Once the clip is up the plug will come off but may take a bit of effort since its rather tightly attached.
Once both plugs are disconnected set the radio head unit aside

Step 7: Taking The Plug Apart Part I (the easy part)

The large plug is actually 2 plugs in one
Toward the bottom of the large plug there is a small plug secured buy a blue clip
The clip just slides out to the side (may have to start it with a small screw driver or a knife)
Once the blue clip is out the small plug will pop right out

Step 8: Taking The Plug Apart Part 2 (the hard part)

4 of the pins have to be removed from the large plug
The pins are a royal pain in the ass to remove without the "proper" tool though I'm fairly sure one can be fabbed up from tubing (see my note on the subject in the header of this DIY)
To remove the pins the slide clip has to be pushed all the way up (it will click into position once all the way at the top).
The pins are numbered on the plug: The following have to come out #5 (violet/white), #7 (white/red), #9 (red/green) & #15 (brown)

Step 9: Plugging in New Wires Into Large Radio Plug

The iPod interface harness comes with 4 wires with round pins on the end just like those that just came out and with matching colors.
The pins from the iPod interface need to go into the large radio plug.
Violet/White #5, White/Gary #7, Red/Green #9, Brown #15
The pins simply slide in and lock into place - make sure they are completely seated.

Step 10: Installing The New Plug

The 4 pins removed from the large plug have to be inserted into the new 4 pin plug that comes with the interface kit
The pins just slide in and lock into place - make sure they are seated all the way.
The plug has a rounded and a squared end - starting from the rounded end the order is Brown, White/Red, Red/Green, Violet/White - an easy way to see if they are going in the correct way is to just match it up to the plug on the iPod interface wire - they have to correspond.
Once the pins are in the plug, plug it into the iPod interface harness

Step 11: Dealing With The Small Plug

This only applies to cars with a phone or with "phone prep" - I assume this also includes all cars with BMWAssist (which was my scenario)
2 of the pins in the small plug that was removed from the large plug you took apart need to come out.
The small plug has a cover - to pop it off pull up the little black tab and slide the plug out of the cover
The #3 (yellow) and #8 (black) are the pins to be removed
These are FAR easier than the round pins. A small knife or watch screw driver can be used to depress the little metal tab and then the pin will pull right out.
Step 12: Transferring the pins to iPod Interface
This step is subject to the same phone/phone prep stipulation as Step 10 - if you did not need to do 10 you do not need to do this one
The yellow and black wires pulled out of the old plug in the last step need to be plugged into the identical plug on the iPod interface harness
The pins need to go into the same locations (#3 for yellow and #8 for black) as they were on the old plug
The pins will just slide in and pop into place - make sure they are seated
Once the pins are in slide the covers back on the new and old plugs

Step 13: Putting the Small Plug Back Into the Large One

The small plug (the one where the yellow and black wires were added) from the iPod interface need to go back into the location on the larger radio plug where the old small plug was before.
Looking from the front of the large plug the small plug has to go into the space on the right.
Plug simply slides into place and is then secured by sliding the blue retaining clip removed in step 7 back into place
Step 14: On to the Glove Box

You have to drill a hole in the upper rear left corner of the glove box in order to thread the iPod connector in.
The "ideal" location is 5/8" from the back and 7/8" from the top edge.
The hole needs to be 5/8" but most drill bit kits will only include bits to 1/2" - I drilled a 1/2" hole and then used my Dremmel with a sanding bit to open the hole up just enough to accommodate the plug.

Step 15: Installing the Grommet

Cut the grommet on one side - from the center hole to the edge (do not cut the whole grommet in half!)
Run the iPod connector wire through hole in the glove box with the iPod connector end (rectangular end) in the glove box
Slide the sliced grommet on to the iPod connector wire and push it into place in the hole in the glove box
Step 16: Threading the Wire
Place the glove box on the passenger side floor and pull as much of the connector wire out as you can out of the glove box
Run the iPod connector wire up through the back of the dash and into the radio area

Step 17: Connecting the Interface Box

Slide the rubber/foam sleave on to the interface box
Run the interface plug (black harness that you connected to the large radio plug) under the plastic radio bracket so that it goes under and behind the center section (horizontal part with the hole in it - see image) and comes out in the rear right side.
Plug the interface plug (black) in to the socket labeled "Radio" on the interface box and the white plug from the iPod connector into the socket labeled "iPod" on the interface box.

Step 18: "Mounting" the Interface Box

There is an adequate amount of room at the rear right side of the radio space to "mount" the interface
The interface has to slide plugs first into the space and takes a bit of wiggling around to get it in place (careful wiggling as to not damage the plugs)
The side most forward on the interface has to be at most flush with the center post for the radio to mount correctly (horizontal section with the hole in the center).
Once in there it will stay put - I have not had any noise issues, etc.

Step 19: Reconnecting the Radio

The large and small plugs have to go back on the radio
The small antenna plug simply slips back on
The large radio harness plug needs to be seated and then the top sliding clip needs to be pushed down in order to lock the plug completely in place
Step 20: Reinstalling the Radio
This can be a bit tricky since there are a few more wires connected to the left side of the radio
It took me a few minutes of fussing around and trying different scenarios of pushing wires this or that way until the radio slid all the way back in
Patience, patience, patience
Once the radio is back in place replace the screws and snug things down

Step 21: Reinstalling the Glove Box

First plug in the glove box light and flash light charging receptacle
Make sure to thread the wires around the glove box the same way as they were originally (see step 4)
Pull the iPod connector wire back into the glove box as much as you can
The glove box has a series of tabs at the back and 2 "hooks" at the front corners
Start putting the glove box in from the end and swing it up and forward into place.
Start by installing the front 3 screws back into place
Finish by replacing the other 3 screws
Once all the screws are back in reconnect the strap on the right and the "damper" on the left - the pins simply push back

Step 22: Reinstalling the Trim

Start with the piece over the radio
Do not push the pin on right side of the radio trim piece all the way since the other trim piece has to go over it as well
Replace the second piece of trim and press down firmly in order to seat all of the pins and make the trim sit flush with the rest of the dashboard

Step 23: Reconnect the Battery

Reverse the steps taken in Step #2 to reconnect the battery and button up everything in the trunk

Step 24: Plug in the iPod

If everything was done correctly once the iPod is plugged in you will see BMW on the iPod screen
Test to make sure the iPod is being controlled by the radio, etc - bandage skinned knuckles, enjoy!
Oh, and reset your clock

BMW 1-series New Video

2007-10-24T02:40:00.000+03:00

A new BMW 1-series promotional video has been released. It's pretty much similar to the other videos released earlier but the main difference is the car's color that is featured in.

For the first time, the LeMans blue exterior color is being shown to the public.

Cool Comercial

2007-10-24T02:11:00.000+03:00

Never underestimate the influence of centrifugal force :))

Look like Heaven

2007-10-23T20:36:00.000+03:00

I can't stop looking at this perfect pictures!

Cool Pictures

2007-10-13T14:27:00.002+03:00

Cool bmw pictures :

Top Gear - BMW M3 CSL

2007-10-12T16:32:00.000+03:00

All-New Competition Package for the 2005 BMW M3 Coupe

2007-10-12T16:26:00.000+03:00

Already renowned for its performance and handling, the new Competition Package takes M3 performance to the razor's edge. Every aspect of the M3's handling has been tweaked resulting in the best-handling M3 ever.

The wheels are 19-inch forged-alloy wheels with high-performance tires. They connect to a suspension that has been tuned specifically for the Competition Package. Turn-in is quicker with a more direct steering ratio which goes from 15.4:1 to 14.5:1.

M Track mode and brake system taken from the BMW M3 CSL
The Dynamic Stability Control system includes a less intrusive M track mode, as on the M3 CSL, ensuring the security of DSC and spirited driving too. For inclement conditions the regular DSC mode remains. The brakes, also adopted from the M3 CSL, include compound and cross-drilled rotors. The front rotors have also been enlarged from12.8 to13.6 inches.

As the serious enthusiast would expect, the Competition Package is available in combination with the standard six-speed manual or the optional Sequential Manual Gearbox.

The interior enhancements of the package are subtle but purposeful. The Alcantara steering wheel and handbrake grip feel good to the touch. The addition of the steering wheel-mounted button for the DSC M track mode requires the deletion of the multi-function controls and cruise control. The Competition Package is available with all M3 Coupe interior and exterior color combinations. Two trim items are exclusive to the Competition Package. Special Competition Package aluminum trim is included on the interior. A new exterior color, Interlagos Blue, is offered only with this package.

The Competition Package will be available for 2005 M3 Coupes beginning with December 2004 production and it will make its debut at the Los Angeles Auto Show. The price for the package will be $4,000.

THE NEW BMW M3 SEDAN

2007-10-12T16:14:00.000+03:00

M3 Sedan Comes to America in 2008

Woodcliff Lake, NJ - BMW raises the performance benchmark once again with the introduction of the 2008 M3 Sedan. Sharing the M3 Coupe's high-revving 414-horsepower V8 and balanced chassis that is designed to be "faster than its engine", the motorsports arm of the German auto maker, BMW M GmbH, is pleased to offer the most powerful, highest-performing M3 ever with four doors.

Originally offered in 1986 as a homologation special to allow BMW's entry into the German Touring Car Championship, the M3's popularity and steadily increasing sales for each iteration motivated the company to continue developing this unique combination of driving dynamics, comfort and luxury in a compact machine and offer a new version each time the underlying 3 Series was reborn. Americans were first introduced to the M3 sports sedan concept in 1988.

The first M3 produced 192 hp from its 2.3-liter four-cylinder engine during its 1988-1991 model year run. A legend was born and Americans embraced the high-rpm, naturally-aspirated M concept. The next generation arrived in 1995 with a 3.0-liter (and later, 3.2-liter) 240-hp inline-six powerplant. In 1997 the first M3 Sedan joined the family and the first M3 Convertible followed shortly thereafter. The most-recent version, available as either a coupe or convertible from 2001-2006, again was offered with six-cylinder power, this time providing 333 hp from its 3.2 liters. This vehicle was BMW's first use of SMG (Sequential Manual Gearbox) for the US market.

The all-new 2008 M3 Sedan and M3 Coupe that arrive in spring 2008 will feature the first V8 in a series-production BMW M3. It will also feature driver-adjustable settings for crucial dynamic controls including steering, damping and stability (and an available steering-wheel-mounted "MDrive" button to store the preferences) and a sumptuous interior that can be optimized to a driver's desires including the comprehensive entertainment/navigation system operated through BMW's latest iDrive controller.

THE NEW BMW 1 SERIES CONVERTIBLE

2007-10-12T16:13:00.000+03:00

BMW's 128i and 135i Convertibles Come to America in 2008

Woodcliff Lake, NJ - For those whose definition of pure driving pleasure includes wind in the face and sunshine above, the new BMW 1 Series Convertible follows the tradition established by the iconic BMW 2002 sport sedan. The essence of such driving purity - a responsive six-cylinder engine positioned within a rear-drive chassis to provide balanced, sporty dynamics - is at the heart of this compact four-place convertible.

The 128i Convertible, which joins the new 1 Series Coupe going on sale in the spring of 2008, will be powered by BMW's 3.0-liter, 230 horsepower inline six-cylinder engine generating 200 lb-ft of torque. Like its fixed-roof stablemate, the 128i Convertible will feature Valvetronic valvetrain management and aluminum/magnesium cylinder block construction-core elements of BMW's EfficientDynamics.

The 135i Convertible, on sale later in 2008, features BMW's twin-turbocharged 3.0-liter inline six-cylinder engine producing 300 horsepower and 300 lb-ft of torque from as low as 1,400 rpm. With its direct piezo gasoline injectors, twin low-mass turbochargers and air-to-air intercooler, optimum performance and economy is achieved with no loss in engine response. For the 135i Convertible, acceleration from 0-62 mph is accomplished in 5.6 seconds and top speed is electronically limited to 155 mph. Both engines feature on-demand engine coolant pumps that improve fuel economy and reduce parasitic losses for increased efficiency.

BMW M5 e60

2007-10-11T20:17:00.000+03:00

another good spot

Another great BMW Ad

2007-10-11T20:14:00.001+03:00

Rolling......the M5

Black e36 M3

2007-10-11T20:02:00.001+03:00

Great video ...must see that.

The new BMW M3

2007-10-11T19:08:00.000+03:00

The new BMW M3 from Geneva Auto Show